If that area gets tile then I would try to get some sort of fasteners back there. You might try heavily tilting the drill and driving a couple of screws in at severe angles.
Otherwise, just do the best you can. If so, how do you put thin set mortar mix down with the moisture barrier in place? However, you could apply a waterproof membrane over the cement board and use a waterproof seam tape on the seams andaround the edges if you were trying to protect it.
But unless there is a way to drain water then the water would simply run out the door. I am doing the tile for my master bathroom which is about 18ft wide and 12ft deep. I have a wood pine floor can I put tyvek on it then put leveling cement on top of it before I put the hardibacker down? Or simply install cement board or hardibacker. So I have a waterproof barrier in place as long as I dont put screws or nails through it.
It has no finish. So it is ugly black and shows the over lays where the membrane was welded together. I does not leak. So I am looking for a system that I can go over the standard rubber based waterproof membrane. I want it to look like a nice finish. I considered a mortor cementuous mixture but it is sq.
I thought cement board may be a good answer and then but an epoxy slurry on top. I do not like the raised decking systems and they are expensive. I would prefer to avoid a tile finish but will use that if that is my only alternative. So thinking out of the box…got any ideas? Also, drainage should be built in below the waterproofing so the water runs the right way at the waterproofing level. Outside decks are nothing to take lightly especially if they are over a finished space. Will this cause major issues?
Or is it more that I probably put more weight and height on the floor than necessary? There are a very limited number of them that are OK for going over a wood subfloor with no additional reinforcement.
Secondly, once the self-leveler is dry you can adhere tile directly to it. You could, however, install backer board first and then self-level on top of that. They were provided with pictures, drawings, and technical details so there really should not have been anything to assume or have to factor in for the proverbial C. First, the house is located in the ATL GA area we do see some freezing but not extreme and not for long periods.
The deck is a covered deck with an open straight gable roof. The Deck is enclosed on 3 sides by the brick house and only open on the 4th.
Both the bottom under the deck and top on the deck have a brick column and archway system supporting the deck structure. Leaked profusely for years until I contacted a company called Stone Creations who said they could remedy the situation by creating a slope on top of the tile then adding their product a waterproof limestone that they would make to look like the tile pattern and color. Now having the plywood removed, proper slope angel shot with survey laser and sister floor joist installed next to existing joist.
Glued and screwed. C National Roofing Council which is also the minimal set forth across all U. Pass through systems like schluter all require air vents in every floor joist cavity at both ends if your are finishing the ceiling below. Best for soft joint is Dowsil or but is limited in colors. That is you are getting all the parties involved and coming up with a solution that is geared specifically towards your outside deck with a finished ceiling underneath.
And the folds and wraps matter. Now, maybe an experienced crew can overcome those hurdles but, for me, I would look into a different solution.
Personally, I would want one manufacturer to specify the whole system. Additionally, I would take a look at Noble Deck EXT if you can get that product and a rep in your area to come out and specify it for your exact situation. But, to sum up, you have more experts there that can provide better information than me in the opposite corner of the U.
Ok i know after reading this article i technically did the wrong thing but let me explain and you can tell me if you think the tile will be ok or not. As im towards the end.. I put some thinset under but mostly screwed it down. I would rather have seen you install another layer of Ditra over the Ditra.
I had tile laid in my kitchen in November 7 months ago. Also, grout is starting to break up. We are on a crawl space, and the floor has had extra piers added to it, but you can feel a bounce if a big guy jumps up and down hard. The floor is definitely not insulated, in case that matters. Any thoughts? Thank you so much! Your floor should be under warranty from your original installer.
There are several possibilities for a failed floor installation. But no thinset under the Hardibacker would be the number 1 thing I would look at. Thank you. Lesson learned. Thank you for your help. I took my tub out to install a tiled shower. I plan on thinsetting and screwing cement board to the subfloor, then RedGard, then thin set and tile. I need to match the height of the existing tile in the bathroom. I may not understand fully but it sounds like you removed your tub and will instead build a shower?
It sounds like you want the shower to be curbless and even with the existing floor? Check out my post on waterproofing systems but if you want to build a curbless shower in that space then I recommend the Wedi Ligno shower system. Should I remove the Luan or can I use thin set on top of the luan? Also if it is OK to use the Luan, what spacing should the hold down screws be? Thanks for your time. Thanks for your time dwm. My wife has MS. I bought an Oakley ProLine linear drain. The main tiled area in the bathroom has been leveled and has a heated floor.
I plan on securing 2x6s with construction adhesive and screws to the existing floor joists to get the slope I need. You definitely want to remove the Luan and thinset and fasten the Hardibacker to the subfloor directly. Probably under at the tile layer also. Maybe a modified procedure, like set the cement board with a trowel to give slightly thicker thunder, then take a measurement and adjust the thinset thickness for the tile to get a match with existing tile?
There is no mortar between the backer boards and subfloor it was still brutal to tear up. The old tiles extended underneath the edge of the tub which is slightly flexible vinyl?
If I do that, what should I do to support the edge? Or would you recommend that I extend the tiles underneath like the old floor was? You can always flat trowel the back of the tile or hold your trowel at a straighter angle.
Or mix your mortar stiffer. I have a question. I want to apply a tile to the bottom of a wood post which is outdoors. Will it work if I install some cement board first the size of the tile I want to use?
Will this hold up to the moisture? Thank you so much!!!! Hi I want to use large porcelain tiles over my hardwood floors in my kitchen, dining-room and living-room because we have lost of traffic and a dog. I was wondering in the installer used hardibacker board over the entire floors and screwed them down, would that be sufficient enough to use thinset and then use the porcelain over it? Thank you for your comment. It needs to come out and then you can build over the subfloor.
I am redoing a bathroom and installing cement board for the first time. Everything looks great, however all of the seams are slightly raised due to taping. Do I need to sand these down a bit or is the difference too small to make a difference? Thanks for the reply.
This is a great site for DIYers. Hi, Is it recommended to put a wedi board or schulter membrane in the front door vestibule on cement floors. The current tiles are all cracked. Will the membrane help reduce the tile from cracking. There are a lot of reasons that tiles and grout joints can crack. They may not be installed with proper exterior mortars. Maybe there is no room for movement. They are solid, but not super tight together due to the age of the house. Will just screwing the cement board down make the tiles crack?
Should I use some thin set on each individual subfloor plank? Then you can use a thin membrane over that if you want. Anything short of those two options is taking a risk. I am going to pour a concrete counter top in place over plywood. Can I install backer board on top of the plywood before pouring the concrete?
After applying the thinset and laying the cement board down do I need to stay off it till it sets? You want to get on it right away to get the fasteners installed while the mortar is still wet.
Once the fasteners are installed you can continue to walk on it all you want. Does it need to dry for a specific amount of time before tiling over it? You can put it on right away if you want. Good question! Ok, so we had square feet of porcelain tile installed through the first floor of our home. The tile runs from our utility room through the kitchen, hall, bathroom and foyer. The installers tore out the old tile which was installed over plywood.
They were supposed to rip out the plywood, put down Hardie board and then tile. But they said the plywood was glued down to the subfloor and thought tearing it up would cause damage to the subfloor.
So instead they left the plywood. And they did use thinset between plywood and hardie back and also between hardie back and tile. I have two questions… is the way this was installed ok? Also is the weight of this ok? I know that might sound a little crazy, but I always get nervous about the structure of homes.
Can my subfloor handle the weight of plywood, hardie back and tile on top of it? Uh oh… I spoke too soon. In the last question I asked I explained how the floors are higher than they used to be.
These are metal doors. But even if they could that would cause a problem with the weather stripping being able to meet the threshold. Any suggestions on how to fix this? My guess is that there is a way and you can raise the height of the threshold.
Maybe someone in the community has a better answer? Hi, I removed the carpet of my master bedroom and cure the cracks on the floor with two layers of RedGard. I was going to do it with siroco over the base floor. But you said that it is not a good idea. What is the best way to do it then?
I think the best way would be with a self-leveling cement. I want to eliminate the issue where moisture destroys the particle board that normally butts up against the entry door. The height will be different but I can add a thin luan sheet in-between the 2 to make up the difference. Do I need to use any thin set morter for the hardi if I intend to have click vinyl plank installed as the finished layer on top?
I would use the cement special screws to attach the hardi to the plywood. Thanks Ron. The other thing is that a little mortar underneath may make the heights work out perfectly. Please explain WHY is thinset necessary? I don't mean backsplash. Cement backer board is an element of the wall that the "backsplash" then is applied to. Hi RJ! That plumber made this way too complicated. Then he will re-position the tub on there to make sure it fits and connect it run water that is properly draining right.
Then he will remove the tub concrete the hole. Then you can have your tile guy or whoever is doing your flooring install your flooring. Oh yes he can reroute your plumbing underneath your slab as well if you want to install a freestanding tub filler. Not trying to be rude you need to find a new plumber so hard to find people that will get in there and do the work or do the job and get it done right.
Sincerely CT, Texas. Installing brick pavers on interior slab bedroom Q. Thick mortar set onto the concrete would be the correct install, IF you've actually accept all all the negative consequences of your flooring choice and have a plan to deal with the cleaning difficulties, the staining propensities, and the large height difference.
And that's just the major issues! There are several makers of brick look tile out there that is actually meant to be walked on and cleaned and won't have the issues with the height. Look at Daltile's Union Square. Waterproof curbless shower on slab Q.
Joe - The setting mortar used to bond Kerdi seams will eventually wick by capillary action through to the substrate. System is not designed to be submerged for any length of time. Liquid roll on will hold in swimming pools. Not recommending one over another but there are limitations. They all work for the purpose they were designed for.
Now my friend Joe C. How can the word waterproof be used if wicking can occur? Same as the word leveling being used for lippage tuning systems.
They level nothing. Folks especially here on Houzz calling tile profile edges Schluter when there are many companies that provide wide selections of these trims.
Compare perm. Some may be surprised. Box stores are the place for selection, savings and professional installations. Think how many people believe that. Notice I didn't include quality. No wonder homeowners and pro's get confused.
Position each piece of backer board in the thin-set, press in place, and attach using special backer board screws on the spacing recommended by the backer board manufacturer. Cover the joints in the backer board with fiberglass tape embedded in thin-set adhesive and allow to set before tiling. It can be used inside or outside and all the extreme weather. LN is perfect for bonding building materials such as wafer board, plywood, lumber, etc.
Fasteners must be corrosion resistant, galvanized or stainless steel. Fasteners shall be installed between 1 in.
Joint-flashing material must be durable, waterproof material that does not react with cement based products. Other products may also be suitable. SeniorCare2Share Care about seniors? Have knowledge? Care to share? Table of Contents.
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