Mounting and Installation To install, simply tap the brown wire onto your right turn signal output wire and tap the violet wire onto your left turn signal output wire. Connect the black wire to a ground source and mount the Dual Load Equalizer. It is recommended that the module be mounted in a location not subject to extreme heat conditions.
We highly recommend mounting on a flat area of your frame away from any plastic, wiring, or exposed cloth. Secure with the included double sided adhesive pad.
Signal Dynamics Corporation warranties this product at time of purchase to be free from defects in material and workmanship to the original purchaser.
Signal Dynamics Corporation's obligation under the warranty is limited to repairing or exchanging the unit if the unit is returned with the postage prepaid to Signal Dynamics Corp.
The warranty is void if the unit has been incorrectly installed, damaged, or tampered with. This warranty specifically limits Signal Dynamics Corporation's liability to unit replacement only and specifically excludes any consequential damage arising from use proper or improper or failure to properly function. A copy of your purchase receipt or other proof of purchase is required when applying for warranty consideration. We promise to never spam you, and just use your email address to identify you as a valid customer.
Upgraded my 09 road king with LED lighting. I required a load equalizer to eliminate the rapid blinking problem. Badlands LEA offered the best low temperature solution I could find. Much lower cost options are available if you don't mind the heat they generated. I am pleased with this purchase and would buy it again if I had to.
Installed the Badlands LEA in about 30 seconds plug n play more time spent taking off seat.. I haven't installed it yet due to cold weather - but does not require wires to be spliced - It is plug n play - much better than the load resistors I have researched - Just make sure to look in the application charts for the proper unit for your motorcycle - read the instructions - just installed it on my 06 Road King - works perfect - would suggest putting shielding on the wires and I installed it under the left side cover - zip tied it to the large wiring harness in a vertical position.
Skip to main content. About this product. Stock photo. Brand new: Lowest price The lowest-priced brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging where packaging is applicable. This will be calculated and applied at checkout. Buy It Now. Add to cart. What I will say is that you should avoid soldering wires on vehicles, proper crimping is the appropriate way to make connections using a decent crimp tool on a vehicle. Look at any factory wiring harness, on any form of transportation, they are crimped.
Aircraft are forbidden to ever have soldered connections, and are inspected for them. Crimping isn't done because it's faster and easier it is. It's done, because metal fatigue causes soldered joints and wires to regularly fail in vehicles I'm a retired avionics engineer dealing specifically with military aircraft, it was my job to make sure my aircraft electronics systems wouldn't fail.
Talk about painful read Aircraft are subject to entirely different conditions and environments than anything else, and what works for aircraft is not appropriate for cars or especially motorcycles and vice versa. Crimping is done for two reasons, and two reasons only: it's quick and it's cheap. That is patently false.
If a wire is held rigidly on one end and flaps around on the other, it's utterly irrelevant whether it is crimped or soldered, it will eventually fail regardless. Adding strain relief will help, but the correct solution is to properly route and support wires so they don't flop around.
Aircraft don't have to deal with all the road chemicals that surface vehicles do and components are for the most part enclosed, out of the elements. Motorcycle components in particular are completely exposed to the elements. Very few people have decent crimping tools. The ones available at auto parts stores are utter crap and are impossible to make a proper crimp with.
In fact, I have yet to find a store of any kind that sells a decent crimper. I don't know where the tradesmen get theirs. The DIY tendency these days is to use those abominable wire taps that cut through the insulation and are easy to install with just a pair of pliers. Those in particular are unreliable and asking for trouble.
I have lost count of how many factory crimped connections I've had to replace over the years because they have corroded. And many have failed mechanically because there was no strain relief or proper support.
I have yet to see a good soldered connection fail for any reason. So yeah, I've looked at them and no, they're not better. A lot of your points are valid, but some are only partially true. Yes, aircraft do experience vastly different environments, but those environments are far more harsh than road travel, including exposure to chemicals and environmental extremes.
Not too many road bound vehicles are subjected to jet fuel or hydraulic fluid most days they operate, while operating at extreme pressure and temp variations within minutes. Aircraft range from low altitude single seat prop planes, to passenger jets, to super sonic high altitude recon planes to cargo helicopters to attack helicopter to transport. They all have the same types of connections, as do all production vehicles. Even trains and ships crimp instead of solder.
If you've never been in a Chinook, you have no idea the amount of chemicals those things spray all over everything, and every military helicopter will vibrate teeth loose. Aircraft components are usually in their own bay, but those bays aren't sealed.
I've pulled gyroscopes out of every type of aircraft I worked on that would be covered in some type of corrosive solution. The only industry I know of that chooses solder over crimping is the space industry, but those are far different circumstances than anyone else would experience.
Crimping IS quick and cheap, for someone doing a specific connection once. Manufacturers have robots that do the crimping, those robots could just as easily solder, and soldering would be much cheaper and just as fast. Solder is far cheaper than crimp connectors. Soldering fills in the gaps between copper with tin and lead or tin and silver , creating a bond of dissimilar metals and an area ripe for galvanic corrosion, which is nearly impossible to avoid on the outside of a vehicle, it's difficult to avoid inside a sealed compartment.
You seem to be too busy feeling like you're being personally attacked and trying to justify doing things your way, you're not willing to see people are simply trying to offer more information. Just because I choose to specialize in a certain field doesn't mean I don't still know all of the other things I learned. Fuels and hydraulic fluids are also toxic and really bad for bare skin, but again that's not the same thing as corrosive.
The same goes for hydraulic fluid. The exception is amphibious aircraft that work on and around the ocean, but that's another whole batch of issues. And gunk or stain isn't corrosion. You need to go look up the word "corrosive". Aircraft in general are much more prone to vibration because the powerplants are much more rigidly mounted than in surface vehicles and the way the whole structure is constructed is more prone to transmitting vibrations.
Hence the "safety wire" all over the place which you will only find on race cars, never consumer surface vehicles. Soldering is NOT cheaper or faster than crimping, especially for automated lines. Then the parts have to cool down so the solder can set and cooling or heating too quickly causes problems as well before they can be moved, which further slows down the line.
Crimping, on the other hand, can be done in a tiny fraction of the time and the usual crimp alloys are cheaper and easier to produce than solder. A proper crimp makes a good joint, and it may make a "homogenous piece of copper" if both the wires and crimp are copper, but that's usually not the case.
In fact, the crimp is usually of a different material and causes exactly the galvanic corrosion that you ascribe to solder. Then the exposure to actual corrosive chemicals compounds the issue.
I have technical degrees as well, and I'm very familiar with chemistry and physics. But degrees don't mean anything if you don't actually understand the material, which you clearly don't. I have just as much experience as you, but unlike you I understand why things are done they way they are and why employees are told things that aren't true in order to keep them from thinking for themselves.
Like that old nugget about metal fatigue. If a crimp makes a "homogeneous mass" as you say, then there is obviously zero difference between a crimp and solder because both are a solid, large cross section which is subject to identical tensile stress along the outside edge when subjected to a bending force.
Which is why wires that are subject to bending are many small strands instead of one big one; the small strands have much smaller stresses for the same bending angle and can withstand repeated bending much, much longer. If you try to bend a solid core wire and an otherwise identical material type and diameter multi-strand wire the solid core will be very stiff but the multi-strand will still be quite flexible.
But if your "proper crimp joint" makes it all one homogeneous strand, that's out the window. Ergo, the metal fatigue assertion is pure baloney because the truth is that nobody wants to explain that soldering would be much better but they're never going to do it because it's much, much slower and much, much more expensive.
And yes, I get miffed when people "offer" misinformation and claim to know things they don't. Reply 4 months ago. Looks like Wo1fMane just likes to argue.
Jet fuel would degrade a solder joint over time. So would regular fuel. I am a mechanic and also a Ham Radio Hobbyist. I fix my radios and electronics with solder and I fix vehicle wiring with crimp connectors. Crimp connectors are the most efficient and durable way to fix any wiring on vehicles and heavy equipment. Also the solder they make these days is prone to fracturing with temperature change.
Hence why electronics do not last like they used to. I would never use solder to do any sort of wiring repairs on a vehicle or my dirt bike aka motorcycle. No, I just hate misinformation. Fuels do not degrade solder joints any more than they do crimp joints. Over a lifetime of dealing with bad crimp joints in vehicles of every type, and never having even a single solder joint fail in any vehicle, I will never, ever use crimp joints. Crimp joints don't even have to corrode to fail, all they need is oil or grease to creep in and insulate between the parts.
Connectors that are made with crimp connections I solder instead. Now, if you're lazy and careless, which are the only reasons you would prefer crimping, you probably make lousy cold solder joints, and yes, those do fail, usually quickly. But a proper solder job lasts like no crimp ever could. The obvious problem with crimping is that there is always a gap or seam that allows corrosion.
Any time there is air, there is moisture and corrosion. And no, it doesn't matter how much pressure you apply to the crimp, the metals are never melded together. That is a complete myth. Crimp connectors are necessarily relatively soft and malleable and will disintegrate long before you could possibly create enough force to make the joint solid in that way.
A good solder joint, on the other hand, seals the joint completely so that corrosion has no chance of starting. I use heat shrink crimps. I have never made a lousy solder joint. You are annoying and like to argue with everyone on here. Solder will corrode by itself. Ever taken apart any electronic device that has had water damage? All of the solder joints corrode.
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