The most traditional method for solid hardwood floor installation is to nail the planks to the subfloor. This method requires a nail gun, and the nails need to go into the tongue of the planks.
Just remember: this type of hardwood floor installation is not for the occasional DIYer. Nailing hardwood planks is by far the most complicated way to install hardwood floors. Our humble flooring suggestion: find a flooring installer to do it for you.
Both solid and engineered wood flooring can also be stapled to a subfloor rather than being nailed. The process is much the same as the nail-down method, but… it uses staples. What are the pros and cons of using nails vs. Well, staples have a firmer grip on your wood planks—meaning the boards are more secure. But , nails are more forgiving with movement. But do your research. Some flooring adhesives contain VOCs volatile organic compounds , which can emit toxins in your home.
Just as the name implies, click-together or snap-together flooring locks into place using special grooves in each plank. Rather, they stay in place thanks to the pressure of the planks and surrounding walls. Floating floors. Most engineered hardwood options can be purchased as click-together flooring, while solid wood click-together products are a bit less common.
But if you prefer a more rustic look, you can find that too. Kahrs , for instance, manufactures some of the best engineered wood flooring for people who want features like beveled edges and saw marks.
Good question! The biggest complaints are a squishy or hollow feeling in the floors. Additionally: a lot of hardwood floor alternatives come as click-together floating floors. Everyone knows that some types of wood flooring are more durable than others. But — and we emphasize the but —the life and durability of your hardwood floors depend most significantly on quality installation. So: whichever installation method you go with, if you want to get the most durable wood flooring , make sure to follow these step-by-step instructions.
That way, you have enough extra material in case you experience a cutting mistake or need to account for irregular shapes in the room. You have no idea how much trouble and annoyance this will save you in the long run. Trust us on that. Your local flooring people can help you with this one, especially for funky-shaped rooms.
But most importantly, you need to have the right tools at hand before you start. For a smooth project with minimal hiccups, make sure to have your gear in place when you begin.
Your floor is only as good as the subfloor beneath it! If your subfloor is squeaky, appears to have water stains, or is uneven, you need to fix it before you install a floor over it. Make sure your subfloor is clean, dry, and level.
The most common underlayment for both solid and engineered wood flooring is a vapor barrier— 15 lb. Just remember: you want to make sure your measurement is accurate before cutting.
After the boards have acclimated, choose the straightest ones for the first 2 rows. Prepare Your Subfloor Remove old flooring and any residue. Remove carpet strips and baseboards. Old flooring materials may be made of asbestos. Install the Boards The first and last rows of the room have to be nailed through the face of the board.
If you have no experience, screwing these rows will make them easier to remove, if necessary. All other rows will be nailed through the tongue. Lay the first board on the line you snapped, groove toward wall. Drive flooring nails through the pre-drilled holes. Tap the next board in place using a tapping block and mallet. Nail in place. Countersink all the nails.
Now, blind nail at a degree angle along the tongue edge at every floor joist down the length of the row. To start the second row, push the groove of the board onto the tongue of the first row and tap together with a tapping block.
Continue down the row, remembering to stagger the joints by at least 6 inches. When the row is done, blind nail in place. Continue installing the rest of the boards, remembering to stagger the joints, maintain the expansion gaps, and mix boards from different boxes.
Position it to drive the nail through the tongue and tap with a mallet. Adjust the air pressure on the nailer if necessary, to countersink the nails. Use a jigsaw to cut around any vents or jogs, like a fireplace hearth, to fit the boards. Face-nail the last two rows along the tongue side. You may need to cut the length of the boards to fit in the last row.
Use a pull bar to click the boards together. Then, face nail. To finish, cut the excess underlayment and sand and stain if necessary. Then, fill the nail holes with matching wood putty and replace the baseboards and shoe molding to cover the expansion gap.
Finally, add the thresholds for a complete installation. Thanks for signing up!
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